Sunday, July 31, 2011

How to Measure For a Storm Door

After you have chosen the type of storm door you want, the next step is to measure the door opening and choose the proper size. Now there are a few standard door sizes. For example, a standard door height is anywhere between 80" inches to 81" inches. For a taller, 8-foot door, the standard height is around 96" inches. Standard door widths are either 30" inches, 32" inches, 34" inches, or 36". On a side note, if you see the quotation (") symbol on a measurement, like 12", it means "inches". If you see an apostrophe (') on a measurement, like 8', it means "feet." If you see an X it means "by". So a measurement written as 36" x 8' would be read as, "Thirty-six inches wide by eight feet tall."

Now, all storm doors mount to the exterior trim on your entry door. The exterior trim must be wood in order for a proper installation. Oftentimes, the most common type of exterior trim used is called "brickmolding." Why it's called brickmolding I have no idea; it's made of wood. Other times, you may have 1" x 4" cedar trim or something similar. No matter, what you are looking for is that there is a flat surface of at least 1" to mount the storm door frame to and that the depth of the material is at least 1" as well.

MASONITE EXTERIOR DOORS

Once you have determined that you have a proper surface to mount the door to, now it is time to measure the opening.

Measuring the opening is simple. You want to measure the width of the door from the inside edge of the exterior trim to the inside edge of the exterior trim, and in 3 places to the nearest 1/8":

At the TOP, At the MIDDLE, and At the BOTTOM of the opening.

Write down or remember each measurement and make a note of the SMALLEST measurement. Now you are going to measure the height from the threshold to the top, and in 3 places:

On the LEFT side, In the MIDDLE, and On the RIGHT side of the opening.

Once again write down or remember each measurement and make a note of the SMALLEST measurement.

Now, write down your two smallest measurements as width X height. If you get confused, write down the smaller of the 2 smallest measurements first; this is the door width. The remaining number of the 2 is the door's height. Now you have the actual door opening size. You may refer to the tables below to find out which manufacturer's door sizes can fir your opening.

How to Measure For a Storm Door

For more information on this and other storm door related topics, please visit the informational website http://www.stormdoorguy.com

The author is a storm door installer for a large, national retailer. He has personally installed over 2,000 storm doors from the four major manufacturers. Speaking from experience, his unique perspective gives homeowners a chance to see storm doors through the eyes of an installer, not a salesperson.

MASONITE EXTERIOR DOORS

Saturday, July 30, 2011

Sliding Closet Doors - An Option Worth Considering

Sliding closet doors or bypass, as they are sometimes known, are commonly seen in areas with small closet space. This is because you do not need additional space in front of your closet every time you open the door.

Some of the basic types of sliding doors are French, louvered, wooden, glass and mirrored. The available styles and designs make sliding doors a perfect contemporary addition for modern homes.

MASONITE EXTERIOR DOORS

Once you have made your purchase, maintenance is important to make sure that your door will work perfectly for a long time. Regularly check the track and caster and make sure that they are in good working condition.

Check out these sliding closet doors available at online retailers:

NUporte Siding Doors from Home Depot-Espresso and Cottage:

The product line includes NUporte 48-inch by 80-inch Espress 5-Lite 2240 Grand Door and NUporte 6-foot White 1110 Series Cottage 3-Panel Door. The Espresso is the company's answer to hectic lifestyles, with trendy designs ranging from contemporary to casual home decor. The door is embellished with stylish, attractive and high quality rich finishes. This is a great way to add vitality and warmth to your living area.

The Cottage series features white flat panels, full-sized doors, two-piece track, hardware and 4-foot wide frame with wood substrate. The complete set includes two color coordinated fascia strips that have joiner block, floor guides and dial adjust rollers. The door panels are 7/8 inches thick and dual cam lockable.

Shoji Sliding Door Kit-Double Sided:

Chopa.com offers this double-sided doors which are available in five colors, namely traditional Black, dark cherry, walnut, honey or natural. This can transform any room into a naturally lit and calming retreat. The design features sustainable Asian wood, wood lattice and 4 by 13 square grid. The frame in mortise and tenon hardwood has been expertly hand finished. For beauty and aesthetic purposes, the doors have visible grid work on both sides. The rough opening dimensions include 81 by 3/4 inches high, 73 inches wide and 3 and 1/2 inches deep.

Kestrel Sliding Closet Doors:

This door is available in various styles, including panel, louvered, beadboard, glass, fabric or mirrored interior, board and batten and tongue and groove. This custom-built door is expertly hand constructed from premium and solid hardwoods, such as mahogany, basswood and Spanish cedar. A center stile is provided to add stability to a large door.

Series 1-Bottom Roll Framed Sliding Mirror Door by Kingstar:

The company's extensive selection of door frame finishes provides you flexibility in choosing a design that perfectly complements your home decoration. A bottom roll operation secures the door, making it an integral part of an anti-jump protection. This guarantees you that rollers are effectiveky secured into the bottom of the track. It uses a safety mirror, ensuring that the mirror stay intact, thus preventing injury when it breaks. The door measures 192 in width and 96 in height. The frame finishes are available in architectural brown, bright white, arctic silver, brass laminate, empire almond, bright gold and satin gold.

Sliding Glass Doors by SpaceMan:

This door is very easy to open and close and perfectly quite. The manufacturer makes sure that the sliding door is properly fitting, extremely affordable and safe. An amazing feature is the roller system designed to prevent doors from loosening off their tracks as you slide them. This door is also multi-functional as you can use it as divider of a space or room. This sliding door is available in milky glass, frosted glass, clear glass or mirror.

Sliding Closet Doors - An Option Worth Considering

For more about Sliding Closet Doors, visit http://www.replacementclosetdoors.com.

MASONITE EXTERIOR DOORS

Best Tips on Buying Fiberglass Entry Doors

When it comes to home improvement, putting your best foot forward means having a front door you can be most proud of. More than the porch or patio, the front door is the focal point of a house. In the eyes of onlookers and visitors, it is the platform on which you convey your house's personality. Aged wood doors might suggest an easygoing unit whereas sleek steel doors might hint at an urban household. Certainly, fiberglass entry doors signify that you are getting the best of both worlds. They are lightweight yet hardwearing. Long after your neighbors' wooden doors can no longer stand fluctuating temperatures and repeated use, fiberglass will continue showing its worth. It is only a matter of finding the right one for your functional and aesthetic needs.

1. Do not settle for just one.

MASONITE EXTERIOR DOORS

Wood, fiberglass and steel are the current choices of surface material for doors in the market. In the past, a door would have been built from one of these materials alone but there are newer doors made from a combination of materials. Some doors have a steel interior and wood exterior. Steel rusts and dents while wood rots, cracks, splits and bows. Wood expands and contracts as the weather changes. Fiberglass is not vulnerable to such wear and tear as wood and steel are. Your best option is an entry door of composite material in which fiberglass is the main make, perhaps with a wood frame where handcrafting and other exquisite detailing are achievable.

2. Look at the big picture.

The door is an entryway to the house and must harmonize with it. Fiberglass entry doors straddle looks, with classic and modern styles complementing the natural and man-made elements of the outdoor environment. Be sure to browse through a broad selection of panel styles, glass configurations, pre-finishes and finishes. These diverse features have come to be offered with architects, remodelers and homeowners in mind. A wood grain finish like oak or mahogany approximates real wood, evoking warmth and traditional beauty against a siding like brick or concrete. Remember that exterior doors should go with interior and patio doors as well as windows, which in turn should not clash with important furniture like a sofa or bed, so having hints of wood on the front door might be sensible.

3. Consider name-checking.

Big brands are in the lead of advancing fiberglass entry doors in the market, recognizing that they have become increasingly popular. Long trusted names like Masonite and Milgard are focused on quality control, as with the former's high-end Barrington product line and the latter's vertically integrated production. Benchmark by Therma-Tru, recognized product pioneers, and Feather River are zooming in on innovation, both having entry door systems that offer security and peace of mind. As door makers vie for market leadership, they would naturally make a wider variety of better products available to you conveniently. Test these products as a point of reference - latch one, lock another, swing them open and close. Taking cues from name brands when fiberglass door shopping should help you make informed choices in regard to functionality and design.

4. Think long-term.

Fiberglass door products already come at competitive costs due to rising customer demand. In addition, they insulate 3 to 5 times better than doors made from wood and help brighten rooms with natural light, which means you can save energy. On top of these, they are unlike wood doors that necessitate constant repairs and quicker replacements. Fiberglass entry doors are a smart investment for their durability, efficiency, contemporary appeal and staying power. Buying one will cost you less in the long run.

Best Tips on Buying Fiberglass Entry Doors

Ward Eichelberger reviews many of Fiberglass Entry Doors. Please visit his site at http://www.fiberglass-entry-doors.com for latest news.

MASONITE EXTERIOR DOORS

Friday, July 29, 2011

Log Home Restoration - To Caulk Or Not to Caulk?

In the log home industry, like all industries, the implementation of techniques, products and procedures vary from company to company. From concept to design to actual construction, each log home will have it's own set of variables and unique challenges. However, one particular procedure is often preformed in an inadequate manner, or substandard products are used, or may be neglected altogether.

Ignoring the proper installation and maintenance of this very important aspect of the construction process can and has led to major damage. Logs, trim work, fascia, soffit and other areas of the log home have succumb not only to major mildew problems and insect infestation, but most importantly, wood rot.

MASONITE EXTERIOR DOORS

This important procedure is caulking. Probably at least one half of the log homes I inspect or work on are improperly caulked, not caulked completely (meaning the home is weather tight) or not caulked at all.

Generally, most log homes have some amount of caulking. Usually it is found around windows and doors. Sometimes the corners have either been caulked or some type of expanding foam may have been used. However, more often than not, that is about all the caulking that can be found.

Now, depending on who you talk to, will determine the answer to what and how much should be caulked on a log home. The reality is, common sense will reveal the truth.

I recommend caulking every joint and seam from under the eaves of the exterior walls down to the floor rim joist. Starting at the top, this would include running a bead of caulk between where the soffit and the siding or logs meet. This is one of the most overlooked areas of the home and one of the largest areas that not necessarily leaks from water intrusion, but air and insect infiltration. Most of the time this wall just butts up to the soffit and very seldom has any type of weather proofing.

Next, if the window and door trim has been installed, it is hard to tell if these areas have been caulked properly or caulked at all. If the builder is reputable, then most likely it has been taken care, but it would be wise to check. It may be necessary to remove the trim to be able to see where the logs butt up to the window/door framing.

Now to the logs. This may be debatable, but it seems to me if there is a crack or gap between two pieces of wood, this is an invitation for air, water and insects to enter. When we use a chemical strip to remove old failing finishes during a log home restoration, we always find leaks. It doesn't matter if the house is one or one hundred years old. Every log home will leak to some degree or another. We have stripped many log homes from large lake homes to small cottages and to date, they all have leaked somewhere to some degree.

With that being said, that is not necessarily bad. When a leak is found, it is marked so later when the caulking process begins, we can identify where the leak was and address it as needed. Granted, these leaks were caused by high pressure water being forced onto the logs. However, if the water can find it's way into the home, so can ambient air an insects.

So, at the very least, all window and doors, butt joints, log corners and checks should be caulked and caulked properly.

The next questionable area is the seams between each stacked log. Most but not all manufactured log homes have a tongue and groove system milled into the logs. During construction generally each log will have some type of gasket, usually foam, and a bead of caulk running the length of the log in this groove to form a seal between the two adjoining logs making them weather tight. In theory, this should be sufficient. The problem is in new construction, these new logs are going to shrink, settle, twist ,warp and bow over time as well as expand and contract due to temperature changes and depending on the initial moisture content of the logs, all of this can cause considerable movement. This movement very likely will cause the caulking and the foam gasket material to fail, logs to pull apart at the seams and also butt joints to separate.

If this happens, the only remedy is to caulk. But until this is done, water, insects and air are able to easily enter and begin to cause damage and at the very least, make for a drafty log home.

This can easily be eliminated from the beginning if the homeowner will ask to have the entire home caulked at the construction phase or when log home restoration is needed. Once the old sealer is removed exposing clean bare wood, then would be the perfect time to install new caulking and thereby eliminating any potential problems with water, air or insects.

To caulk a log home properly only takes a few days depending on the size. If it is new construction, there is not much prep work. If it is a log home restoration, there may be some old caulk that will have to be removed first but, after that, the new application is easily applied, tooled and cleaned to leave a neat weather proof joint that will last for several years.

Remember, log homes are constantly shifting, shrinking and swelling, therefore there will always be caulking issues to be addressed. The solution is to stay on top of it by doing annual inspections and making repairs as necessary. It doesn't take long and most people can do it themselves or you can hire a professional to do it. Just make sure it gets done before any real damage occurs and you are faced with some real expense of replacing damaged logs or other woodwork. Log home maintenance cost far less than log home restoration. You make the call.

Log Home Restoration - To Caulk Or Not to Caulk?

Earl D. Johnson is the owner of Taskmasters Wood Maintenance. Living in a log home that my wife and I renovated and built two addition rooms allowed us to deal with every aspect of log home maintenance. Our business is log and cedar home, deck and dock restoration. We enjoy sharing our knowledge to help educate the homeowner on proper maintenance techniques so they will have the ability to make informed decisions when planning for their home maintenance and restoration. Be sure to visit our website http://www.taskmasters3.com

MASONITE EXTERIOR DOORS

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Sunrooms: The Basics For Building One

Deciding on getting a sunroom is one thing. Actually constructing one is another. Whether you are getting a professional to make it for you or you are going to put one together from scratch or a kit, these are the basic steps for building a sunroom.

Plot it first. Keep in mind three things when you design the sunroom: where you will position it, what it is for, and how much you are willing to spend. Determine how large your sunroom should be and where you would put it. If you plan to use it for entertaining guests, you might want to place it near the kitchen or dining room. If you're on a tight budget, think about possibly converting your porch (or part of it) into a sunroom instead to save on materials and foundation.

MASONITE EXTERIOR DOORS

Straighten out the paperwork. Talk to your local building and zoning authority. Make sure you're following all the regulations and are provided a permit to build. Since you're already there, also check how this might affect your taxes.

Make a blueprint. If you had previously envisioned what your sunroom would look like, this will be the easiest part. If you're undecided, there are plenty of ideas online and in magazines to choose from. How much sunlight you want to come into the sunroom will determine the size and number of windows. Weigh how much ventilation you will need for the seasons you experience with the additional utilities expense that might cost. Include the appliances and furniture in your plans to allocate for possible electrical wiring and plumbing.

Acquire the materials. Regardless of whether you will hire an expert, get a DIY kit, or do everything manually, verify the quality of your building supplies. Get tempered safety glass for the windows. Try to get double-paneled panes or ones that can conduct heat well. See to it that your window frames can absorb heat and handle the contraction and expansion of the glass.

Start with the foundation. For this part, it's always best to get someone who specializes in this. Ensure that the sunroom will be level with the part of the house it is connecting to. Not only will this be more convenient, but it increases market value if residents don't have to step up or down into the sunroom.
Erect the frame, roof, walls, windows and doors. Begin with the skeleton of the sunroom. Leave adequate space for the windows and doors. Then, fix the plywood to the outside. When you move on to the windows and doors, set them properly to prevent leaks.

Complete the outer part of the sunroom before doing the inside. Make sure your sidings and roof tiles complement the existing architecture of your abode. The same goes for the trimmings, wallpaper, and flooring. When moving on to the inside, get a licensed electrician and plumber for the wiring, insulation, and plumbing. Do the wall boards next, then the fixtures and trimmings. Paint everything afterwards and when they dry, you're ready to move the furnishings and plants into your new sunroom.

As you can see, assembling a sunroom takes a lot of work. The key to accomplishing the task is proper preparation. Remember the tips in this guide and you can't go wrong.

Sunrooms: The Basics For Building One

SRA Home Products specializes in sunroom, pergola, patios and deck installation while also doing extensive basement remodeling. Feel free to call for a no-obligation quote if you don't plan on building a sunroom by yourself.

sunrooms South Jersey and sunrooms New Jersey

MASONITE EXTERIOR DOORS

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Pre-Installed Dog Doors

Pre-installed dog doors are specially designed doors for pets to use. It can be removed by the owner as and when he desires. It is a self framing and energy conserving door offering easy entry and exit for dogs. Most have maintenance-free rigid metal frames with durable weather proof seals. Some doghouses also come with a pre-installed dog door.

Excellent quality and extreme functional design are the major features of this door. It is very easy to dismantle and relocate. With a pre-installed dog door, you can decide when you want to let your dog out and when you want it in. Some pre-installed dog doors are electronic and are operated by a sensor or computer chip in the dog's collar. Most models come with a template and an instruction manual.

MASONITE EXTERIOR DOORS

Usually, pre-installed dog doors are made from strong aluminum or high-impact thermo plastic or vinyl. These removable doors help to keep heat inside in winter months. It can be removed in the summer months to enhance interior ventilation. For extra security, it has heavy gauge steel interior lockable panels. Types of pre-installed dog doors include classic, automatic, electronic, and magnetic. Some of them have mesh screens and others have shatter-resistant tempered glass. Pre-installed dog doors can be placed in walls, windows, wooden doors, screen doors, French doors, and alongside sliding glass doors.

Pre-installed dog doors come in small, medium, large, and extra large sizes. Choosing the correct size will ensure the comfort of your dog. It is available in heavy-duty frame construction with dead-bolt lock and tempered glass. It also comes in a variety of colors including white, almond, and bronze. A range of wood choices are available including Masonite, pine, and cedar. Top quality pre-installed dog doors are available in a number of standard and custom dimensions.

Pre-Installed Dog Doors

Dog Doors provides detailed information on Dog Doors, Electronic Dog Doors, Patio Dog Doors, Screen Dog Doors and more. Dog Doors is affiliated with Soft Dog Crates.

MASONITE EXTERIOR DOORS

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Simple Renovations That Will Help Sell Your Home

Hire a Professional Cleaning Crew - Not necessarily a crew to clean the inside of your home but one to spruce up the exterior areas that so many busy homeowners tend to neglect.

Have the whole exterior of your home pressured washed, not forgetting the decks and/or porches. Invest in the services of a professional window cleaner to really get all those windows sparkling clean, including the ones that are too high to reach without extra effort such like attic skylights.

MASONITE EXTERIOR DOORS

Paint - A coat of paint, inside and out, can work wonders. On the inside go for neutral tones so that you are not offending a potential buyer's color sensibilities. For instance, some people love green but for others green walls make them feel nothing but nauseous. Stick to off whites, beiges and grays instead which are all good choices.

If your exterior paintwork is looking a little worse for wear call in the professionals and at least have them do a touch up of the existing colors, because if a home's exterior looks shoddy or poorly maintained the chances that buyers will even bother to venture beyond the front door are seriously decreased.

Deal with Curb Appeal Issues - Paintwork aside, potential buyers will also be sizing up the state of the yard and the entrance to the house itself. Sure, things like a bit of weeding or repairing a fence or two are things they could do themselves once they have moved in but the fact is most buyers don't want to have to. It is especially important to make sure that your front door is in good shape because if it is not it will raise security as well as aesthetic issues in a potential buyer's mind. Having a new front door installed is not very expensive and it might make all the difference between the house being sold or not.

De-clutter - Although it is your stuff and would obviously be removed when you moved out, clutter can still instantly turn a buyer off. Don't just simple throw it all in the garage though since that needs to look clean and tidy too. Pack what you can neatly into boxes, have a yard sale or even rent a storage unit to store your excess belongings until it is time to move.

Simple Renovations That Will Help Sell Your Home

For more useful information on home improvement and home remodeling go to:-

http://www.renovationexperts.com

MASONITE EXTERIOR DOORS

What You Need to Know Before Installing Interior Bifold Doors

Interior bifold doors are a practical and economical choice for closets in small spaces. There's a variety of finishes from which to choose, including wood veneer and glass doors.

Small areas such as a bedroom, entry or hallway usually don't have enough room for closets with swinging doors. That's where bifold doors are a practical alternative. Closest dimensions typically have openings of four, five or six feet. A bifold door is versatile as it has a right and a left section, which join in the center in an unfolding action. This allows for opening the door from either the right or left side.

MASONITE EXTERIOR DOORS

The selection of bifold door styles are the same as with traditional swing doors, with the exception of the type of hardware needed. Bifold doors are available in the typical hollow core interior style, which makes them an economical and lightweight choice. Durable and easy to install, bifold doors don't have to be drab looking. Some hollow core styles include decorative features such as raised panels, which add a stylish touch. There is also a variety of wood veneers available such as mahogany, maple and oak.

Solid core bifold doors are another option. Although they cost more than hollow core doors, they can be a good investment if sound is an issue. The term "solid core" describes the core portion of the door, which is a solid piece typically comprised of manufactured or particleboard wood. Some solid core doors have a steel core. The veneer on solid core doors is similar to that on hollow core doors but more closely resembles the wood finish of swing solid wood doors. This makes it easy to match the style of existing swing doors in the home.

You may want to purchase casing or trim for the doors and consider adding a doorstop to your list. Casings, trim and doorstops are not included in the bifold door package. These can add extra cost to your project, but do provide a more professional and finished look. However, it's not necessary to have these extras, especially if cost is an issue.

There are other uses for these doors besides closets. They're very useful between rooms that don't have doors and transition into other areas, such as into a living room or kitchen. It's also easy to combine bifold doors, using two to make up one larger door.

It's not difficult to install a bifold door and only a small number of tools are needed. The most expensive tool you might use will be a screw gun or power drill, but a manual screwdriver is sufficient. Of course, if you plan to add trim, there will be a bit more work and time involved. Adding casing, trim or a doorstop is an extra step.

These doors come in louvered, solid or other combinations of styles, making them easy to match with your existing doors. There are many varieties from which to choose, and they can add elegance and beauty to any home at a reasonable cost.

What You Need to Know Before Installing Interior Bifold Doors

Pat Fisher is a professional carpenter and woodworking craftsman. For more information on finish carpentry and household carpentry projects and plans, visit http://www.finishcarpentryhelp.com.

MASONITE EXTERIOR DOORS

Monday, July 25, 2011

Review of Barrington Fiberglass Entry Doors by Masonite

Builders, remodelers and homeowners are constantly looking for the best construction materials to use in houses, with durability, attractiveness and longevity in mind. Rome wasn't built in a day, and you would hate for your residential sanctuary to fall apart faster than it took to come together. The front door, the first most noticeable part of a house, is also sadly one of the most overused and overexposed. This has been a sore point for wood, which is prone to rotting, warping, folding and splitting. Door makers are now playing cat and mouse over fiberglass and composite material, which can withstand shifting weather conditions and daily wear and tear. Barrington fiberglass entry doors, the premium product collection by a long-time door manufacturer, Masonite, are among top rated examples of smarter alternatives to wooden exterior doors.

Upon review, what is emerging as the most attractive quality of Barrington doors is that they emulate authentic wood doors. Wood had been favored as the surface material for doors, with good reason. It exhibits the kind of timeless craftsmanship that you have come to love about traditional doors. Barrington fiberglass entry doors have been given a wood grain surface made to resemble the real hardwood doors of old. In a choice of oak or mahogany texture, this variable-depth wood grain finish shows how present-day technology can closet itself in a neat classic package. A second stand-out quality of Barrington doors is their customized make. Fiberglass doors typically use generic glass inserts but the Barrington line uses proprietary decorative glass in an array of designs, which has been factory-glazed using custom glazing ingredients so that it is wider, with narrower stiles and rails. Custom glass frames have been designed to align correctly with the panel.

MASONITE EXTERIOR DOORS

In this vein, composite material that resists rotting has been used for the bottom rail while hinge and lock stiles have been engineered with laminated lumber. A raised moulding has been integrated into the door facing to come as a singular piece, not like plant-on appliques break apart from the door. All Barrington doors have a square-edge design and a reinforced lock area to make a solid mounting surface.

While less meticulous door makers have been on fire for functional but none too fetching products, the Barrington brand has not neglected beauty. This is evident not only in the likeness to traditional hardwood doors but also in designs intended to cater creatively to the high-end market. The Sierra series of Barrington fiberglass doors coordinates with Southwest, Spanish or Mediterranean motifs. It features the first ever non-glazed, opaque finish on a Barrington door. It has a 2-panel camber top design and custom panel profile, with options of planks and matching full sideline panels. The Craftsman series is fashioned after mission or craftsman architecture. Three recessed panels and a one-lite glazing system are its other elements, with the option of a matching one-panel, one-lite sidelite panel.

Shoppers are quick to forget considering the company behind the brand, which especially matters when buying a product that is expected to work well or last long. In this case, Barrington fiberglass entry doors as well as interior doors and patio doors are backed by the trusted name of Masonite, based out of Tampa, Florida. For a bit of history, founder William Mason was a researcher, engineer and inventor who had innovated the use of wood for the creation of building materials in 1924. Masonite has since been manufacturing doors and building products for over 80 years, and has one of the largest research and development centers for steel, composite, fiberglass and wood doors.

Review of Barrington Fiberglass Entry Doors by Masonite

Ward Eichelberger reviews how to get the best from Barrington Fiberglass Entry Doors. Please visit his Fiberglass Entry Doors site for latest news.

MASONITE EXTERIOR DOORS