Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Exterior Doors - Wood, Fiberglass Or Steel?

There are many choices when it comes to exterior doors for your home. The three most popular door types are wood, fiberglass and steel. Factors such as where you live, the exact style or design you want and your budget will all affect your decision. If you are thinking about replacing your exterior front entry door then you should think about all the great benefits to a new front door such as adding curb appeal and value to your home. A new door will also give the exterior of your home a quick update for a relatively low price. In fact, you can purchase a really great quality steel door (which is one of the best door types on the market) for about 0.

exterior doors with sidelights

Wood Doors
Wood doors have been around the longest of all doors and provide the most decorative and personalized options. These traditional doors have other beneficial characteristics such the ability to be painted or stained, a project you could probably handle on your own. Wood doors are made better and stronger today then they used to be. While wood doors do provide a sense of security (being that they are thick and heavy) they are not as secure as fiberglass or steel doors in that they have the potential to be kicked in. You can also choose from a variety of finishes for a wooden door and easily customize decorative glass for the door. If you live in a hot climate such as Las Vegas or Palm Springs then a wood door may not be best for your home because the wood can swell and end up costing you time and money from having to maintain and fix the door. If you want a warm and traditional feel to your home and top security isn't a priority for you, then wood doors are an excellent option.

EXTERIOR DOORS

Fiberglass Doors
If you are looking for a strong, very secure and very energy efficient door then a fiberglass door is a great option for you. Fiberglass doors look and feel like wood but won't crack, warp, scratch, peel, swell or expand like wood and are three times stronger than wood doors and in some cases can be easily painted or stained. These doors have a wood grain texture molded into them which gives the appearance of a real wood door when painted or stained. Fiberglass doors resemble wood doors so closely that it is hard to differentiate between which one is real wood and which one is fiberglass. These doors provide added security protection and greater insulating quality- while keeping to a traditional theme with less maintenance than wood doors.

Steel Doors
Steel doors are the most energy efficient of the doors discussed here but do not have as much decorative options as wood. Steel doors are the best option for those who live in areas that are subject to harsh weather such as hurricanes or tornados since they are so tough and strong and also hold up to all the elements (such as heavy rain and snow) well. Another great benefit to steel doors is that they don't chip or crack or even warp. Another perk is that many steel doors come with a fireproof option. Keep in mind that steel doors can get dents but can also be easily repaired if needed. Being that steel doors are so strong and secure and the most cost efficient, they will probably continue to be one of the most popular door choices.

Whatever door you choose for your home, make sure that you weigh out the advantages and disadvantages of each door type to find the one that suits you best. If you are looking for other door types for your home, such as a garage door from any of the materials discussed above, then make sure you find a professional contractor to install it for you.

Exterior Doors - Wood, Fiberglass Or Steel?

Marcy Tate is a content writer for Networx.com

At Networx.com, we connect you with local contractors who are trustworthy, quality professionals that are screened by us and reviewed by you. Make sure you click this link Doors Networx to find a reliable, local garage door contractor in your area and to receive free quotes on any garage door needs.

EXTERIOR DOORS

Roll Up Doors For Metal Storage Buildings

Metal storage buildings provide a secure place to store the extra items you may have accumulated at the office or at home. They also serve a variety of purposes beyond basic storage such as home offices and workshops. One of the options to consider for these types of buildings is roll up doors for the main opening.

exterior doors for sale

The ease and convenience of roll up doors add to the security advantages. Roll ups seal more tightly than most other options keep out unwanted four legged guests and birds. Locking systems are available to insure that other types of intruders also won't have easy access.

EXTERIOR DOORS

Depending upon the region in which you live, wind may be an issue. Tests are done on the doors to withstand high amounts of wind. Some doors are rated for windloads up to 140 mpg.

Quick installation of rollup doors for metal storage buildings is available. Some models come with a barrel that is fully enclosed. It can be installed in less than five minutes. If time is important, this is a good option. Testing is also done so that doors can exceed the process of opening and closing them over 75,000 times.

Low head room options are available as well as budget options. The construction of these models include the door guides being hot dipped in galvanized steel that is 18 gauge to make them stronger so that they will then last longer.

If noise is an issue, models are designed and engineered so that quiet operation is the rule and not the exception. This is especially important if the door is adjacent to an office or workplace.

Slats are another feature in some models. The advantage of slats it that they can be easily replaced should they become damaged or dented. Sizes vary but for doors that can be up to fourteen foot wide by fourteen foot high, these are usually three inch slats. This makes them easy to replace.

Many colors and sizes are available. Most common sizes are ten foot high by ten foot wide and go up to sixteen foot high by sixteen foot wide. Custom options are available.

The ease of operation of roll up doors for metal storage buildings and the efficient use of space that these doors provide are things that should be considered when shopping for doors for a new or existing metal building. These advantages outweigh many other types of doors that are now on the market.

Roll Up Doors For Metal Storage Buildings

Fay Salmons writes about Metal Storage Buildings at http://www.theshedreport.com

EXTERIOR DOORS

Warhammer Scenery - Making Great 40k Buildings From Recycled Paper

This article discusses how I made two Warhammer 40k buildings out of paper packaging materials. I used a pair of this material to make Imperial Guard Command Posts. These 40k terrain pieces came out awesome and are perfect Warhammer scenery for Planetstrike. My plan is to use these 40k buildings for Planetstrike games as a command centre stratagem or bastions. The command centre stratagem gives counter-counter attack to friendly units within 6". I may also use it as a small bastion. And I don't see any reason you couldn't use it as both, of course. However, I'm not sure these work as Warhammer terrain for Cities of Death. They just don't have the right look to be part of a ruined cityscape. But, I guess they could work as pre-fabbed bunkers hastily constructed in a long contested ruined hive amongst trenches and piles of rubble.

masonite doors

The two command posts were fun to build and really inexpensive (probably less than combined). They are a great 40k terrain project. While this article is focused on my success with this project, the general approach can be used to create a myriad of wonderful Warhammer scenery pieces.

MASONITE

40k Scenery Design
There are a few ways to go about making 40k scenery. You can buy readymade Wargames terrain. You can make kits as shown in their directions - Games Workshop has got several great ones. Or you can bash the kits, modifying them from within the parts of the kits, combining kits, or fabricating some of your own additions. Another option is to go to your bits box and make something up. Just going through the box and laying out stuff can be very inspiring.

My favorite items in my bits box are molded paper or Styrofoam packing forms - the kind that come in the various household appliances and electronics we buy. Some of these look great just the way they come and you can see right away what you can do with them; others are a bit more challenging and lend themselves to even greater creativity. I don't even remember what items most of these things packaged anymore.

Once you've chosen something, you might consider doing some concept drawings to get an idea of what you want to make. Many people are intimidated by this step - don't be. The sketch is for you, and you never need to show it to anybody (unless you are a budding web publisher like me). When doing the sketch, you're really trying to achieve a few specific things. First, you're trying to get an idea of modifications you want to make or bits you're going to need to add to your form. You may find you'll need to fabricate a few things from scratch. Second, you're trying to figure out the materials you're going to need. Finally, the sketch can help you formulate in your head your plan - it can give you ideas on how you're going to create you Warhammer scenery project.

I knew right away when I saw these two items when going through my bin that they'd be perfect for the Imperial Guard. I'd been working on my army and reading lots of Black Library fluff on the Guard, so that's what I wanted to do. I got out a pencil and a pen and tried some things out. This drawing told me I would need to make doors, windows, add some bits to make it authentic (Imperial architecture is fairly stylized and you need some Acquila's and technical bits). I knew I'd need to add some Warhammer terrain elements on the base, as well.

Tools and Materials
You're going to need a few things. Tools I used:

Exacto knife with long blades Jigsaw with 20 teeth per inch (TPI) blades (a cordless jigsaw is best) Paint bucket Large and medium paint buckets Fine grain sand paper Drop cloth and news paper Large scale terrain brushes Metal ruler Snips Putty knife

For materials, I used:

Black, tan, or earth tone primer Paper towels White wood glue (PVA glue) Hot glue (first time on a Warhammer scenery project) Super glue Flat or matte acrylic house paint (three shades) Woodland Scenics talus (large and fine grain packages) or similar gravel Sand Filler putty, Hydrocal, or something similar Misc bits from my terrain bits box and my 40k miniatures bitz Matte varnish or clear spray paint Hobby foliage Static grass, flocking, or ground foam (a variety is best)

Preparation - MDF, Trimming, Sealing
Mounting your 40k terrain pieces on some very flat, fairly resilient surface is a good idea and MDF is just the thing. You can alternatively try masonite or plywood. Either way, trace out the shape you want on the MDF with a permanent marker or pencil. If you're cutting anything more than 1/8" thick, you probably should cut it at a 45° angle - it should slope down from the center of what you're cutting (write some arrows on the board if you're prone to lapses as I am). If you're cutting out multiple beveled bases, remembe that you'll need a good ½" between your outlines or your bevels will overlap.

Cutting MDF should be done using a cordless jigsaw with at least 20 teeth per inch blades. Wear a dust mask and goggles, and make sure your cutting surface is stable and be mindful not to cut anything under your board. Sand the cut out shapes with finishing paper (you should still be wearing a dust mask) and it's a good idea to put sanding sealer on it to preserve and make it hold paint better (I didn't, but it's still a good idea).

The molded paper shapes had a ridge of paper around the base that needed to be removed. I tried using the Dremel for that, which worked, but was dusty and hard to control. So, I just used the craft knife with a fresh, long blade. I traced the level I wanted to put windows onto the form (to put the slit for the windows at a height of 25mm) and trimmed the entrance for the door.

I choose not to mount the paper on the MDF at this time because I thought it would be easier to mount the windows and the door assembly without the MDF. In retrospect, this wouldn't have mattered and this increased the chance of damaging my project. Moreover, I also did not seal the paper. I think sanding sealer or clear varnish would have been ideal - but, as I didn't, I can't be sure. In any case, this would have helped when I painted (the paper was VERY absorbent) and may have also made the 40k buildings a bit more resilient.

40k Building Windows
I wanted my windows at eye level and suitable for firing weapons from - so, I decided to do basic rectangles to look like a reinforced firing slit. About 25mm long, 10mm high, with a 3mm firing slit, mounted on the building with the window vertical center about about 25mm high. I traced that height onto the buildings and then made the windows out of matt board. Card stock would have been easier, but not as thick. Plastic board would have been a bit more expensive, but I would have had cleaner cuts.

I drew the windows onto the matt board and then used a fresh, sharp blade to cut them out. I used a metal ruler as a straight edge for the first cut and then gently passed the blade through the cut several times till I was through. This is critical - if you try to cut thick matt board all in one got, you'll significantly increase your chance of tearing the paper AND when your knife blade pulls through at the end of the cut, it's hard to control.

40k Building Doors
The doors were a bit harder to construct. First, I removed a 1" square tab of paper from the molded paper. Then I had to make a template so I knew what shape I'd make out of the matt board. I wanted to have a sloping frame around the door, so measured out a trial template and then kept making modifications till it fit. This was definitely a process of trial and error -- patience and persistence will be rewarded.

Once I had it right, I traced out the door frame on matt board and cut it out. I used hot glue to mount the piece to the building. This was the first time I've used hot glue on a Warhammer scenery project. However, I wanted something that would dry to firm hold faster than white PVC glue, wanted it to have some filling qualities, and was worried about how much glue the paper would absorb. This turned out the perfect choice for this project - even though I did get a bit of hot glue on my fingers a couple of times. SO - safety warning: the tip of the glue gun is VERY hot, don't touch it. Safety warning 2: Melted glue is HOT - so DON'T touch it. As it's glue, you'll have burning hot sticky stuff on your skin and you're not going to like the result.

This next bit of instructions gets a bit complicated without pictures. You can view my website where I've provided a similar tutorial that is fully illustrated.

I needed to finish the door by making a couple of triangles and a roof, and then putting the door inside of all that. Again, I cut templates out and fitted it all iteratively until it fit and then cut the pieces out of foam board. I glued these onto the door frame using the glue gun again. I did have a few mistakes, but you can just cut out more foam board or card stock and fill gaps.

I traced markers on the buildings where I wanted the windows positioned. Then I mounted them with the glue gun. Then I finally glued the buildings to the MDF, again using the glue gun. There will be significant gaps between the building and the MDF when you do this - it'll have to be filled with putty or filler.

I wasn't happy with the finish on the door. I wanted a cleaner look at the end of the foam board. So I traced out a frame on cartridge paper (any thick paper will work), cut them out with scissors, and glued those on with PVC glue.

Adding Warhammer 40k Details
Now comes the fun part. Pulling lots of detail pieces out of the bits box. I decided I wanted some barbed wire around the door mounted to posts. I made the posts out of sprue bits. (I documented how to make your own barbed wire in a previous EzineArticle.) I glued the posts onto the MDF with the glue gun. I also had some rocks I had made from Woodland Scenic rock molds and Hydocal years ago, and mounted them to the base. I used what I had and added other little miniatures bits - antennas, some form of electronics panel on the side of the door, a couple of lasguns. Use whatever you have available.

I used filler applied with a putty knife to blend the building onto the base. It's OK to have some seams and gaps here - I mean, the building was placed there, so it doesn't have to be perfect. An old forgotten fact surfaced as I did this - filler doesn't stick well to anything that is really dry (relative humidity this time of year is 30% here). I should have sprayed a bit of water. And, I should have sealed the paper and MDF. I didn't. Oh, well. It worked out fine, but would have been easier if I did those two simple steps.

To break up the smooth texture of the filler, I sprinkled sand on it while still wet. This was a bit of laziness and didn't work so well. You should let the filler dry overnight, then glue sand and gravel. The filler isn't that good at holding the sand on its own.

Once you've got all your stuff securely glued, it's time to prime. For this project, I didn't want to use black - it wouldn't blend well with the game boards (battlescapes or whatever you want to call them) I am currently using. So, I used desert tan. I would have been better off with a darker color, but this worked fine.

Painting Warhammer Scenery
Painting 40k terrain is pretty similar to doing Warhammer miniatures - it's just a matter of scale. You should use three colors - a base, a mid-tone, and a highlight. It will be best if these match the paint scheme you're using on your game board. Also, I prefer to use house hold matte (flat) acrylic paints for large projects. They are durable and relatively inexpensive. You may need to thin them SLIGHTLY to make them a bit easier to use, particularly for dry brushing. But, don't thin too much because they tend to act weird if you add too much water (I think excessive water interferes with the binder and the paint won't stay mixed in your bucket).

Paint on your base coat with a large brush; depending on the effect you want, you may want to let some of the primer to show through. Then overcoat the mid-tone again making sure to let much of the primer and base coat show through. Finally, use a finer brush to dry brush your highlights.

Try not to paint too much of this heavy household paint on your detail areas. If desired, you can wait to glue these till later, painting them separately. This will allow you to paint Aquilas and lasguns and whatever to a much greater level of detail.

If you want, you can wash a dark tone before you do the highlight. For this project, I used Liquitex acrylics to make a brownish grey (burnt sienna and ultramarine blue) VERY thinned with water. I added just a tad of liquid soap to the water before I thinned to make the wash run better. This worked great.

Final touches
I painted the doors and windows in a different color to help them stand out. Since these are Imperial Guard 40k buildings, I went for a basic concrete color using Deneb stone, a couple shades of gray, another wash of Liquitex (I'm going to have to try that on miniatures). I may redo these at some point so that they are just a Bubonic brown highlighed with Bleached bone. I used glue and paint to put on several kinds of ground cover - Games Workshop static grass and a few different colors and textures from Woodland Scenics. I attached barbed wire with super glue. And then used plastic foliage from Michael's to add a few exoctic shrubs and bushes. Then I finished off with a liberal coating of Purity Seal from Games Workshop. I've found this to not only protect my paint, but it also helps to keep all the flocking and ground foam in place.

Finished results
I am ecstatic about how well the two 40k Terrain Imperial Guard Command Posts came out. These are superb 40k buildings, and I'll be using them on my next 40k game. Probably Dark Angels vs Tyranids again. We'll see. And I'll use them again and again.

Warhammer Scenery - Making Great 40k Buildings From Recycled Paper

40kTerrain.com is a project dedicated to helping Warhammer 40k players have more fun. It discusses making and using 40k terrain and 40k scenery. Another, fully illustrated version of this tutorial can be viewed at:

http://www.40kterrain.com/planetstrike/40k-terrain-imperial-guard-command-posts

Additional great 40k Terrain projects can be purchased at

http://www.squidoo.com/40k-terrain

MASONITE

Monday, October 10, 2011

Best Window Treatments For French Doors

No matter what window treatment you decide on for your French doors, always bear in mind the need to allow for easy access through the doorway. There are a number of window treatments that work well with French doors, and this article discusses some of these.

exterior doors

One solution to prevent obstructing the doorway is to place the curtains well above the frame and to have the curtain rod clear of the frame on each side so that the curtains won't get caught in the door. Alternatively you could have curtains or blinds installed on the actual door, so there's no concern about fabric being caught in between the doors.

EXTERIOR DOORS

If you going to use curtains, you'll want them to be floor length, or you could have them a little longer and have them puddle at the base. You could have them hanging down loosely or have them with tie-backs to each side. The curtains could be finished off with a valance; either scalloped across the top of the curtains or sitting straight a few inches down the curtain for a more formal look.

A pair of Roman magic blinds attached to each door also looks very effective. You could have these on the doors by themselves or you could accentuate them with some side curtains. If you went for this look, the blinds could be in a plain color and the side curtains in a contrasting or complimentary color or pattern.

You could also get some mini blinds that could be fitted on each door, and have those either on their own or complimented with curtains. Another window treatment for French doors is to have one large curtain that covers ¾ of the doors, and then having it tie back so it leaves one of the doors free for easy access.

Best Window Treatments For French Doors

Christine Anderson is a freelance writer who enjoys writing on a variety of home decorating topics. To read her latest blog visit http://www.magicblinds.org for useful information and advice on all types of Magic Blinds.

EXTERIOR DOORS

Interior French Doors - What You Need to Know

One of the most obvious advantages of installing these internal doors in any home is the fact that they are able to significantly improve the aesthetics of the home. Highly regarded for their beauty, interior French doors can be both functional as well as decorative.

wood exterior doors

Although French doors are commonly used externally at the front, back or as patio doors, they are also ideal for use in the interior of your home. You may have your internal French doors fitted in your home office, bedroom, and kitchen or laundry room. These doors may also be selected in order to match your furniture and make a statement in your home.

EXTERIOR DOORS

Traditional interior doors are those that are designed with wood mullions. These are ideal for fitting on your way out to the patio in the back yard as well as between the master bedroom and master bath for those who require a larger doorway.

A perfect addition to any home would be internal doors with beveled glass. These may be used between your formal dining room and kitchen, between the master bedroom and master bath, as well as for the opening to the den or home office area. Most of these doors with beveled glass are constructed from light material such as fiberglass and you may also have them pre-hung.

For something a bit more decorative, opt for interior doors with grooved glass instead. These are attractive and allow the light to penetrate through thereby leaving the glass looking like crystal. Because of the versatility of interior French doors, going for this look can significantly improve any section of your home by giving it a very rich and luxurious look.

If you are looking to warm up your home, internal French doors are your best bet. This is because you may open them or leave them closed for some sound privacy while still being able to look into the room. With these types of doors, your home looks more expensive than it actually is.

Interior French doors can be constructed from a variety of wood types including mahogany, pine, cherry and ash. It is possible to find the right type of wood to match the existing interior of your home. By adding a set of interior French doors, you can go a long way in increasing the value and beauty of your home. Interior French doors are available as pocket or pre hung doors and come in a range of prices to fit almost any budget.

By fitting interior French doors you are also able to significantly increase the property value of your home. This is ideal for later on if you decide to resell your home. By selecting interior doors made from good quality materials such as wood and glass, you will be able to ask for a higher selling price for your home. In any case, French doors are known for their durability which means that they are a long term investment that is worth making in any home.

Interior French Doors - What You Need to Know

Joan One is a freelance journalist and creative writer who immensely enjoys writing and researching into any topic under the Sun. She specializes in writing "green" eco-friendly topics aimed at enabling environmentally conscious readers to find simple ways to reduce their carbon footprint and help save our planet.

EXTERIOR DOORS

Sunday, October 9, 2011

Make Your Raised Panel Garage Doors the Focal Point of Your Home

Raised panel garage doors come with decorative panels, making them the best replacement for traditional, plain-looking flush panels which have smooth surface. The raised panel version comes in various styles, designs and colors at many online retailers.

door sweeps for exterior doors

However, before you buy one, careful consideration is needed. You should know your available options, how to get the accurate measurement of your door opening and lastly, how to select the right door for you. Here are some raised panel garage doors that could be of interest to you:

EXTERIOR DOORS

Wood Raised Panel Garage Doors-Cedar Raised Panel and Cladwood:

This door panel is kiln dried and perfectly shaped by a machine to add elegance and beauty to almost all modern homes. The door brings decorative touch that will complement the contemporary style of your home. The door is constructed to withstand the impact of daily use and harsh weather effect. The wood rails and stiles are constructed from premium wood and pinned by waterproof glue and steel to give maximum security, strength and sturdiness.

Midland's Ranch Panel Series Garage Door:

This door has a unique long panel design that brings charm and style to any home. The door is available in 24-gauge, two-inch thick steel or Thermo-Steel with two inches thickness model that is highly energy efficient. Window lite options are 397-3 Stockton, 597-3 Stockbridge, 388 Somerton Long Panel, 588 Wyndbridge Long Panel, Sunburst 4 piece set and Sunburst 2 piece set.

Valu Craft+Plus Garage Doors:

This panel door is expertly crafted to bring long-lasting beauty and value. The door is built using innovative manufacturing techniques for exceptional look, superior durability but with less maintenance and repair. It is fabricated in roll-formed steel and strengthened by high-quality fastening systems. It features baked-on polyester and acrylic exterior, embossed pebble rained finished, two inches thick door sections with 25-gauge hot dipped galvanized steel for exterior skin. You have the option to choose a door with insulation or without insulation. Available colors are tera-bronze, white, almond, brown and sandstone.

GeniePro Series 990 Garage Doors:

This door series has a high level of thermal insulation due to its sandwich construction with foamed-in-place, CFC-free polyurethane insulation inserted between the exterior and interior skin of the galvanized steel. The thermal seals between sections reduce thermal transfer and air infiltration. The door series has an R-value of 17.5 making it one of most thermally efficient replacement you can buy. The door series is available in four colors-white, almond, brown and sandstone--in flush and standard panels.

TS-138 Thermo Steel Garage Door:

This Midland raised steel panel door is a combination of beauty, elegance, energy efficiency and durability, giving you a lasting value for your money. Both the exterior and interior are constructed from heavy-duty steel skins that are bonded securely to a polystyrene core for a high level of energy efficiency and environmental safety. The two-foam core of this door gives it a 6.5 R-value which makes it suitable for use even during harsh weather conditions. Color options are sandstone, almond, brown, hunter green and white.

Bronze Edition-Raise Panel Steel Garage Doors:

This Model 258 door features the look of a sawn wood grain but with the strength of steel. The door is built from 25-gauge galvanized steel for a long-lasting use without rotting, cracking or warping. The door is pre-finished in brown, almond, white or sandstone. Options include two window styles and CFC-free insulation panels for excellent energy efficiency.

Make Your Raised Panel Garage Doors the Focal Point of Your Home

For more information concerning Raised Panel Garage Doors, visit http://www.thecontemporarygaragedoors.com.

EXTERIOR DOORS

Exterior Doors for Home: Can Wood Work?

When you think about exterior doors for home, you should keep in mind that these are the first things that people getting into your house will always see. The exterior door is also the most used in the house by both visitors and the people living in the house. As such, much consideration should be given when choosing the material and design for them.

exterior doors for home

When we talk about aesthetics, there is no material that can beat wood in that game. The beauty of the natural grain of hardwoods and the fact that you can curve wooden doors to come up with any design you desire are facts that cannot be spoken of any other material. So, if you want to make that unforgettable impression in the minds of the people who visit your house, then you should think about wood as the best material for exterior doors for home.

EXTERIOR DOORS

A major concern that most people have is that wood is affected by weather and would expand during wet seasons and contract during the dry and hot season. Due to this expansion and contraction, wood is said to be a weak material that will require constant maintenance work. These claims, today, are only facts if one makes the wrong choice of the wooden doors dealer. Good dealers today have a way of treating and finishing wood that will make your exterior doors for home almost weather resistance. So you do not have to worry about the material but the dealer.

Wood is an expensive material owing to its natural way of giving your home a touch of class and creating a palatial impression even from a simple small home. However, the beauty that wooden doors give your home and the class that it puts you in is worth the money that you give for it. Maintenance of hardwood exterior doors for home would also not costly if you get the best providers for treated hardwood. The important thing to keep in mind is that the skills of the person installing the doors for you will determine whether you get the value you desire or not.

Exterior Doors for Home: Can Wood Work?

Click here http://www.essenceofwoodworking.com to see pictures of my work and services. You can contact me or order the woodwork project for you on the website.

EXTERIOR DOORS